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Book Reviews

Taste of Hawaii : New Cooking from the Crossroads of the Pacific
Book: Taste of Hawaii : New Cooking from the Crossroads of the Pacific
Written by: Jean-Marie Josselin Martin Jacobs
Publisher: Stewart, Tabori and Chang
Average Customer Rating: 5.0 / 5

A Taste, and Glimpse, of Heaven!
Rating: 5 / 5
Although this book is now 12 years old, it's recipes are still cutting edge for many, as he, Alan Wong, Sam Choy and Roy Yamaguchi have created and are still creating, luscious food from the incredible fish and fresh vegetables available on Hawaii and in many mainland grocery stores.

His photographs of presentation are eye-candy, inspirational and reflect simple to elegant food styling presentations quite doable for many home chefs of moderate talents.

It's one thing to improvise, from his recipes when I do not have Opah (moonfish), or fresh mahi mahi, living on the mainland as I do, and still enjoy the recipe...It's another thing to visit one of his restaurants as I just did, "A Pacific Cafe" on Kauai, order the tasting menu, and actually watch him meticulously prepare, plate and quickly serve (on warmed plates) breathtakingly delicious crisp, fresh and perfectly cooked and spiced foods, with delicate sauces complementing, rather than overpowering the main item.

So what's the difference between then, when this book was published, and now? Well, judging only from one night a week ago, looking at my and other raving patron's plates, Chef Josselin has a greater use of decorations and sauces, conveniently dispensed from squeeze bottles for precise patterns of visual delight, with tastes or subtle accents that complement the main item, much as other fine chefs currently choose to enhance their presentations. I expect (hopefully) his next book reflects these contributions, as well as having many newer recipes from the last decade.

These are recipes for a chef with generally moderate skills, willing to happily substitute, as many chefs do, one fish or vegetable for another (and he has already made substitute suggestions already!) in those few recipes that have unusual ingredients. When there's unusual cooking styles ( such as cooking in an "imu"- an underground lava rock lined oven), he offers a simpler way to cook the item in a home oven, using banana leaves or tinfoil.

These are recipes for wonderful tasting and appearing food, with an exotic Hawaiian-French touch.

This is a book reflecting a slice in time of an artistic and multitalented chef, whose recipes, and presentations, are both priceless and timeless.


Fantastic food
Rating: 5 / 5
I just ate at Josselin's restaturant at Ceasar's in Las Vegas, 808 (Hawaii's area code). It bills itself as a Hawaiian/French fusion restaurant. It was the best food I've ever had. I did not realize that I had his cookbook until I went to the restaurant. The huli-huli chicken is great, as is the pineapple-maccadamia nut rice. The only problem with the book is that many of the ingredients are difficult/impossible to find outside of Hawaii.


A Pacific Caf? Maui revisited...
Rating: 5 / 5
When I lived in Maui, this was my favorite restaurant (A Pacific Caf?, on South Kihei Road, in Kihei.) This stunning cookbook, leaves me longing to be back, just so I can dine their once again.

Perhaps when I get a bigger apartment, I may try some of these adventurous recipes. Jean Marie Josselin is one of the founders of this kind of cuisine. Classically trained as a French chef, he was one of the first pioneers of "Hawaiian Regional Cuisine". He moved to Kauai and opened his first restaurant there. He used the fresh ingredients that the island provided. When he opened his first restaurant in Maui, it was an experience just to dine there. The architecture of the inside of the restaurant was rumored to cost around $250k. After a hot day out in the sun, you'd come in and sit at the bar, for a glass of wine and an appetizer while waiting for a table (since you were foolish and didn't make reservations.) The service was so good at the bar, that you decided to stay there and watch the surroundings. Across from the bar, was the line. The appetizers were being prepared, followed by the two or three chefs working on the main courses followed by the person making desserts.

Occasionally, you'd see Arnold Schwarrzennegger and his wife come in, or Helen Hunt, and maybe Dustin Hoffman would sit next to you at the bar. The food was so good, he knew you wouldn't talk to him because you'd be eating the entire time.

All of these memories come back, when flipping through this recipe book... Since I'm not in Maui anymore, I'll just have to settle for Roy's or Kaspars'. (Not a bad thing, just not quite Jean Marie's & George Gomes' masterpieces...)




 
 
 



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